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Whenever curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” states a proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their small restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.